1. Nl Texas Holdem Tournament Strategy
2. Poker Tournament Strategy
3. Nl Hold'em Turbo Tournament Strategy
4. No Limit Poker Strategy
5. Nl Holdem Tournament Strategy Odds
6. Texas Holdem No Limit Strategy

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NL Hold’em Starting Hand Charts

Nl Texas Holdem Tournament Strategy

One aspect of the game of No-Limit Hold’em that causes beginning players much grief is deciding which hands to play and which hands to dump. NL Hold’em is much more difficult than Limit Hold’em because the value of a hand depends on so many factors other than just the cards in your hand. Despite this difficulty, our coaches believe that following some general guidelines and adjusting from these is a better solution than having no guidelines at all. Given that well over half of your profitability in NL Hold’em is based on hand selection alone, we have developed these charts to help you better determine whether to play or fold.

There are no perfect No-Limit starting hand charts. That is because there are many factors that affect your decision, and charts cannot account for all of them. Some of these include:

1. The size of your opponent's stacks.
2. How loose or tight, passive or aggressive, your opponents are.
3. Where these opponents are located at the table – for example, does an aggressive player still have to act after you?
4. Your image at the table – for example, how tight or tricky you are perceived.

That being said, these charts will serve you well in most typical low-stakes No-Limit cash games, such as games with blinds of $1/$2, and home games. These games typically have several loose players at the table, and good opportunities for winning big pots with suited connectors and pocket pairs. With practice, you will be able to be a consistently winning player with these charts as a starting point. As you improve, you'll find yourself making adjustments to these charts based on the factors listed above, and more.

AGAIN: These charts are a good starting point for beginners. Specifically, Chart #1 recommends a significant amount of limping. This is great in loose, passive games but less often seen in tougher games. You’ll find other training material on Advanced Poker Training that may recommend a more aggressive approach for more experienced players.

Note: It would be a serious mistake to apply these hand charts before reading the Frequent Asked Questions first.

CHART #1 ‐ LOOSE, PASSIVE GAME (OFTEN 4-5 LIMPERS PER HAND)
NO ONE HAS RAISED YET

• Raise Always
• Call from Early Position, otherwise raise
• Call always
• Call from Middle or Late Position if the conditions are right (see Frequently Asked Questions)

CHART #2 ‐ TIGHTER GAME (FEWER LIMPERS) OR MORE AGGRESSIVE GAME
NO ONE HAS RAISED YET

• Raise Always
• Call from Early Position, otherwise raise
• Call (or Raise) from Middle or Late Position if the conditions are right (see Frequently Asked Questions)

CHART #3 ‐ THERE HAS BEEN A SINGLE RAISE
(3‐5 TIMES THE BIG BLIND) BEFORE YOU

Poker Tournament Strategy

• Re‐Raise Always
• Call from Early Position, otherwise re‐raise
• Call always
• Call from Middle or Late Position if the conditions are right (see Frequently Asked Questions)

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

For the hands in yellow, what do you mean when you say to play these hands if the conditions are right? The hands in yellow are speculative hands. They should always be folded from Early Position. From other positions, they can be profitable given the right conditions. Some of the questions to ask yourself:

1. Are there other players who have called so far (the more, the better)?
2. Are the players who have called playing poorly after the flop? Will they pay me off if I hit something?
3. Is there an aggressive player still to act behind me (you might get raised and have to fold)?
4. If there has been a raise and no other callers, what chance do I have of using my position after the flop to win the hand even if I don't improve (Chart #3 only)?

Why does Chart #2 say to sometimes raise with the hands in yellow, but Chart #1 does not? We have different goals in mind. Using Chart #1, we want to call to encourage additional players to enter the pot. These hands will be immensely profitable when our loose, passive opponents enter the hand, and get trapped when we flop a set, or make a well-disguised straight. When using Chart #2, however, we want to size up the opponents still to act. If they are tight, we can raise. Sometimes, we'll pick up the blinds. Other times, our pre-flop aggression will allow us to take down the pot on the flop.

What's the difference between AKs and AKo? AKs means an Ace and King of the same suit. AKo means an Ace and King of different suits.

What are early, middle, and late position? Early Position is generally the first 2 (in a nine player game) or 3 (in a ten player game) positions after the blinds. Late Position is the “cutoff” position (to the right of the dealer), and dealer button positions. Middle Position is everything in between.

How much should I raise? As a general rule, raise 3 to 4 times the big blind, plus 1 extra big blind for every player who has called before you. So if there are 2 callers already, raise between 5 and 6 times the big blind.

What if someone raises after I call? Whether you call the raise depends on how much money the raiser has for you to win, how many other players are involved, and what type of hand you have. As a general rule, if you have a pocket pair, lean towards calling. If there are a lot of other players (and therefore a big pot), lean towards calling. In general, fold suited connectors from early position. Fold hands like KQ that don't play well against a raiser.

How do I play from the blinds? From the small blind, play the same hands you would play from late position, plus a few more. But don't call with junk hands like T5o, just because it is “cheap”. From the big blind, if there is a raise to you, play like you would if you had already called from early position.

The chart says to fold KQo to a raise. Really? Yes, this hand performs very poorly against typical raising hands. Against AK, AQ, AA, KK, QQ, you are a big underdog. Other typical raising hands like JJ, TT, 99, AJs, are slightly ahead of you as well. The only time you might call or re-raise is from late position, if the opener was in middle or late position, indicating they might have a wider range of hands.

I was told to fold AJo from Early Position, why do you say to call with it? Folding AJo is not a bad idea in many games. We included it because, at low stakes tables (even tight or aggressive ones), the players are often playing badly enough after the flop that it can be profitable. We used data from millions of hands of low-limit poker to analyze this. The same could be said for KQo, ATs, and KJs – you can make a small profit in the long run at most low-stakes games, but folding would be perfectly acceptable from early position.

Can I use these charts in a NL Hold'em tournament? The charts would be best applicable to the early stages of a NL tournament, when everyone has a deep stack. In the middle and later stages, they should not be used.

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Bet-Sizing in No Limit Holdem

Knowing how to build pots with your winning hands and force opponents to fold with your bad hands is an increasingly imporant skill in cash games and tournaments. In doing so we need to the optimum amount to bet in different situations and streets.

Having a good knowledge of optimal bet-sizing will prepare you for many difficult decisions and will save you alot of chips from making unneccessarily high bets. It’ll also prevent you getting sucked-out by drawers when you currently hold the best hand. (For bet-sizing in tournments read Betting in Poker Tournaments).

Ultimately, every time you make a bet in no limit holdem you should be looking for a careful balance that is dependant on the strength of your hand, the objective of your bet, and the strength of your opponent (plus his table image).

Bet-Sizes on Different Streets

Here are some rough guides for betting-sizes in Texas Holdem. (Remember that in tournaments you’re bet sizes are usually 20-35% smaller than in cash game).

• Pre-flop Opening Raises: 3-4BBs + 1 extra BB for each limper
• Pre-flop Re-Raises: 3x the opening raise (usually about 12xBBs)
• Continuation Bets: half-pot bet is about right (only needs to work 1/3 times to break even)
• Betting the Flop for Value (against drawing hands): 2/3 – 2/4 pot-size bet
• Betting the Turn/River for Value: 1/4 – 1/2 post-size bet
• Bluffing the Turn/River: 3/4 pot-size bet

If you regularly make minimum bets, you will find you are often giving your opposition the right odds to call. Using bets early on in the game, such as preflop, also allows players to reduce the number of actors involved in the hand. This is especially good for getting rid of limpers who try to see flops as cheaply as they with marginal hands, hoping to hit something big on the flop. A good pre-flop raise should be at least 3 times the size of the big blind plus 1BB for every additional limper.

After the flop, the size of your bet should be directly related to the size of the pot. If you have the best hand or you’re looking to bluff you should bet on average 75% to 100% of the pot. This gives your opponent bad pot odds to call on draws, aswell as folding any hands that might possibly beat you at showdown.

Betting for Different Reasons

In poker you should only bebetting for two reasons: to force your opponent to call, or to extract maximum value from hands that when you’re ahead. Some people claim that “betting for information” is also ok, but in my opinion you should be getting your information elsewhere for free – by viewing his HUD stats or watching him when sat out for example.

Betting for Value:

When you are presented with a very strong hand that is unlikely to be beaten, your aim is to keep other players in the pot and extract maximum value – this is known as value betting. For example, let’s say I’ve made my nut flush on the river and I want to extract maximum value from my opponents. A bet size of about 1/4 (also known as min-bet) should be enough to get curious players to call here. Usually, even players who make mid-pair and other non-top hands will call for these odds. On the other hand, if I bet too much, say 3/4 to full size pot-bet, it would be far too much against most players – and my opponents would fold – meaning I’ve missed an opportunity to win more chips.

Betting to Win the Pot:

If I’ve missed my draw and sense some weakness in my opponent (perhaps mid-pair for example), then I’ll need a big bet to throw him off the hand – at least 3/4 to pot-size bet (possibly even an over-bet). The precise amount to bet also depends on the number of opponents in the pot and how weak/strong your opponent is, but most of the time a half to pot-size bet will force weak opponents to fold. Importantly, the more opponents you have in the pot than the bigger your bets are going to have to be.

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Nl Hold'em Turbo Tournament Strategy

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No Limit Poker Strategy

Nl Holdem Tournament Strategy Odds

• $400
• $2000

Texas Holdem No Limit Strategy